Past activities and events
June 2008 Charity ride - Bob 'n' Hope on the Road
Perhaps 100 years ago, riding a horse across the North Pennines would not have been considered unusual, but in 2008, 2 women on horseback raised a few eyebrows. We think the idea evolved over a bottle of red wine, but my sister, Sara, and I decided to ride our horses from her home Northallerton to my home Hincaster.
Sara bred her Fell Pony, Winton Beck Bob, 18 years ago and they have recently been reunited. My girl, Hope, is a 5 year old Appaloosa X New Forest that I have backed for western riding. Our plan was to use as many bridleways and off road routes as possible to meander across the North Pennines. We started making plans early in the year, finding accommodation or grazing for the horses was our priority but not always easy. Breaking the trip down into manageable day rides of 15-20 miles, we had to reroute several times.
We decided the Great Northern Air Ambulance was a worthy cause…..and you never know we might need them! So I rattled off a press release to the local papers. It must have been a quiet news week in Brompton so the Darlington & Stockton Times billboard outside the Post office declared “Sisters ride for charity”. Sara had to drive round the block twice to make sure she hadn’t imagined it.
Day 1. Brompton – Gilling West (20 miles)
A little tense this morning as we tacked up for the first time with all the necessary gear. My husband, Adam, was most worried about driving home to Hincaster, in case anyone he knew saw him towing a horse trailer.
Everyone wished us well and we were impatient to be off. Hope probably hadn’t slept the night before, strange surroundings and all, and was not in her usual chilled state of mind. New kit, new environment, and worst of all a rattling collecting tin! Bob however was on a mission, and he and Sara were oblivious to Hopes hesitation. But given time (30 minutes precisely) she settled down and it was Bobs turn to get excited about a grey horse in the distance.
3 miles down the road, we had already been stopped by two kind people with donations. Near Danby Wiske, we overlapped with some of The Coast to Coast route and were surprised by the number of international walkers. Two Canadians mistook us for the mounted police …. well we do wear a lot of fluorescence. Friends met us with lunch by Scorton Church, just as the heavens opened with torrential rain and hail. I’m afraid a sign for the Brompton-on-Swale Duck Race came to grief when Hope took exception to an uninhabited pink push chair, but we continued across country without incident until one bridleway marked on the OS map turned out to be a footpath with stone stiles. After a short back track we followed another bridleway which added 5 miles to our trip but brought us to the desired destination near Gilling West. Both us and the horses were booked in at a farmhouse B&B a mile out of the village. By the time we settled the horses it was 6.30pm and imagine our gratitude when our hosts offered us the farm pickup to drive back to the village pub for our supper.
Day 2. Gilling West - Arkengarthdale (15 miles)
The panoramic view from our bedroom was so good it was a shame to draw the curtains, and we were woken by sunshine. The horses had had a settled night and once they’d had their breakfast we could have ours. I think you can really justify a full English farmhouse breakfast when you’re out in the fresh air all day …. and are not sure where or when your next meal will be.
The other owners on the livery yard were interested in our adventure and we fielded the usual queries about “What if you lose a horseshoe?” and “Why hasn’t your horse got a bit in her mouth?” We pumped them for information about the route we planned to take that day to avoid any more 5 mile detours.
Molly, one of Bob’s fan club, joined us to ride him until lunchtime. I think he appreciated having an 11 year old to carry while Sara hiked for 7 miles. Most of the farms we passed had already harvested their silage, but we did meet some big tractors as we approached Dalton. Fortunately Bob and Hope are very good with traffic so it didn’t cause a problem for us.
From Dalton we headed South up on to the moors alongside the firing range. Trek leader Sara, got us temporarily lost in a mine field but we soon regained the trail and headed for our lunch stop. More well trained friends meeting us with food. We waved goodbye to Molly and took to the hills again past Washford and Hurst by the old lead mines. The barren landscape looked like something off the moon and I thought the stone grouse butts were new Andy Goldsworthy sculptures.
Some bridleways are classed as only suitable for Fell ponies, sure footed with a low centre of gravity, and some riders wouldn’t dream of riding a trail which might involve them dismounting, but these high level routes were the original packhorse trails not always designed to be ridden and we are happy to ease the load on our horses by getting off and leading them. As we scrambled down the track into Arkengarthdale, I think Hope felt she had somehow returned to her Appaloosa roots and was crossing the Rockies.
As we dropped down into the village we could see the riding stables where the horses were staying just across the valley but frustratingly there was no direct route. We carried on into Langthwaite and out again, past the lane end for our B&B, up the other side of the valley to the stables, dealt with the horses, then trekked back on foot to our accommodation. We met our hosts as we hiked in, they were just setting off to collect us in the car.
Day 3. Arkengarthdale –Winton (18 miles)
Another sunny morning, but I hadn’t slept well. The horses had been stabled overnight and Hope had not settled when we left them over a mile away. I’d had to work hard to block out the 2am paranoia about fire and theft.
Over breakfast we suggested our hosts could use their paddock for guest horses but it turned out they hold scout camps and are not allowed to graze animals on the site. We scrounged a lift up to the stables to find the horses were fine.
According to the OS map, there is a fantastic bridleway leading from Langthwaite straight to the pub at Tan Hill. Local advice however tells you that although you can get to the point where you can actually see the pub, there is a big bog which you can’t get through. So we took the moor road, admired the scenery and felt like we were extras in All Creatures Great and Small.
As usual Bob was in front, and this meant it was Sara who was dive bombed by indignant Lapwings protecting their nests. I was lucky enough to spot a newly hatched Curlew, a speckled brown pompom with an oversized beak, in the reeds. We met 2 women with their dog walking the Pennine Way, heading for Bowes. Their dog carried a back pack with his own provisions. Maybe we needed a packhorse.
When you have only driven a route, not walked or ridden it, distances are deceptive. We kept thinking it must be just over the next hill, and the next, and the next but finally we could see the pub and Dad waiting to meet us. Tan Hill is a sight for sore eyes, a transient place in the middle of nowhere, frequented by long distance walkers, cyclists, bikers, tourists and the odd horse rider. There must be some locals but I don’t know where they live. We were ambushed by ducks while eating our sandwiches and the horses shared the side salad.
A quick word with the barmaid about the bridleway we planned to use after lunch, and it turned out she’d got her horse stuck in a bog on it recently. So we stayed on the moor road and enjoyed our first views of Cumbria. We sent Dad ahead to locate the field for the horses just outside the village of Winton. This had been arranged by our farmhouse B&B which was conveniently positioned about 50 yards from the pub.
Day 4. Winton – Appleby ( 11 miles )
When we went to catch them, Bob and Hope were both lying down in the field as far away from the gate as possible. Sara had to walk right up to them rattling the feed bucket before they woke up. They would appreciate that day’s shorter flatter ride. We tacked up in the farmyard and Bob was much admired by Jack Marsden, a stalwart of the Fell Pony Society with many driving pony championships under his belt.
Quiet lanes all the way to Little Musgrave, the only vehicle we met was the knacker’s wagon on his way round the farms to collect fallen stock. We pointed this out to the horses. A phone call to a friendly farmer and we were given permission to ride across his land. Every field in the village seemed to be populated by Shetland ponies, and as we progressed up the farm track we were flanked on either side by coloured cobs including a magnificent stallion which came to check us out. Hope hid behind Bob at this point but that was fine by me, we didn’t want him coming over the fence.
Up at the farmyard, Geoff Bainbridge abandoned sorting lambs and kindly drove ahead of us to open gates. He proudly showed us his fields of Trotting mares with this year’s crop of foals, and over the brow of the hill tucked down by the River Eden, his practice track. On a recent trip to Australia he’d seen a training buggy which hitched behind a vehicle allowing 8 horses to be exercised at once. He came home and built one. It was doing a steady pace around the track with 8 youngsters midway through their 12km daily training. He waved us off up the lane which used to be the main entrance to the farm some time ago, and I don’t think anyone had been down it since. I had to lie flat along Hopes neck, not easy with the pommel on a western saddle, and trust her to see where we were going.
This brought us out near Warcop and we followed the bridleway south of the River Eden through to Great Ormside where the national cross country Bridleway crosses the river. The water level was low so it was easy to cross, however it was impossible to get out on the other side because the current had undermined the bank. We had been warned about this and it wasn’t far to back track to the road to Appleby.
Appleby Horse Fair had been held 2 weeks previously and the grazing circles were still evident on the road side where the horses had been tethered. Maybe because of the recent Fair or because we’d hardly seen a car all day, local traffic didn’t seem very horse friendly. We don’t ask much, just a drop a gear and give us a bit of space.
We arrived at our friends farm just as he was clearing his sheep out of the field for the horses.
Day 5. Appleby-in-Westmorland ( 0 miles)
This was our scheduled rest day and all four of us enjoyed a lie in. The weather forecast was for heavy rain, much needed after a long dry period, but not nice for riding. Sara and I walked into Appleby and sampled the local tea rooms. I took my maps into the Tourist Information Office to ask advice on the next days route and was directed to the bakery where the local authority on bridleways worked. Susan Sowerby set us right on our proposed route and it turned out we had admired her mare in a field the day before. We returned to the farm just before the rain to watch Ascot with tea and cakes.
Every time we looked out on the horses they were either grazing or lying down. Our non horsey farming friend was surprised, he thought they would have been galloping round his field kicking up divots and creating a crop of docks and ragwort overnight. I think we may be allowed to stay there again.
Day 6. Appleby – Greenholme (12 miles )
In the words of Willie Nelson, “…. on the road again”. We followed a nice bridleway SE from Burrells and then it disappeared, we ended up in a farmyard with lots of noisy but friendly dogs, never mind. Further along we took a short detour to splash through Rutter Falls and craned our necks to see the eco house that featured on Grand Designs. On through Great Asby but too early for a pub lunch at The Three Greyhounds, we admired the natural spring instead.
Climbing to Asby Common it was getting cold, wet and windy. We sheltered under a tree, ate our emergency chocolate rations, and double checked the map. It was not a day to get lost. Sure of our route we trekked on, past more fields of coloured cobs with stallions checking us out, through the Great Asby Scar Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Fantastic limestone pavement with the associated wildflowers but not the weather to linger.
When packing for a riding trip in mid June the one thing I was sure I wouldn’t need were my riding gloves. Wrong. Fortunately I ride one handed, so could thaw one hand out at a time up the sleeve of my fleece.
We came to a bridleway crossroads and our original choice turned into a footpath, so we took a slight detour to Scarside where we encountered a new phenomenon, the 2 horse gate. This is a gate so heavy, or badly hung, it needs one horse and rider to hold it closed while the other fastens the catch. Excellent teamwork required.
The bridleway into Orton was the sort I always associate with the old route to the village church, imagine a well trodden path across a field which has evolved over many years of use into a grassy groove with a bank on either side. The sheep grazing in the field were level with us riders. The horses didn’t bat an eyelid when we asked them to walk over the natural teeter totter bridge over a beck. We chatted to locals about shire horses as we waited for an oil delivery wagon to finish. The Café in Orton was too tempting especially when the owner suggested we could put ourselves and the horses in the barn at the back of the café and she would bring us our hot chocolate and toasted teacakes. Actually, it took two hot chocolates to warm us up and it was wonderful to be out of the rain.
We had another 3 miles to go so gritted our teeth and rode on into even heavier rain. We wondered if anyone mistook us as novel police speed cameras as we crossed the bridges over the M6 in all our fluorescent gear, but I don’t think they could see us through all the spray off the road.
Sue Millard welcomed us into her yard at Greenholme. Ruby her fell pony watching us through the stable window with her novel self filling trough overflowing with rain water from the downspout. We turned Bob and Hope out to graze and enjoyed a warming cup of coffee with Sue while waiting for our lift back to our B & B in Orton.
Day 7. Greenholme – Kentmere (15 miles)
Our gear had just about dried out at the B&B. A great bonus of staying at places used by hikers is they aren’t fazed by soggy horse riders. Our fellow guests were on the Coast to Coast walk and said one of the highlights of their day was scoring the packed lunch they’d been issued. Sara and I carry Babybell cheese, oatcakes and apples which we end up sharing with our mounts. We’d eaten our chocolate the day before, but still had Kendal Mint cake. No cafes on route today so we filled our mini thermos with boiling water for instant chocolate later.
Sue had Ruby all tacked up when we arrived, and led us at a cracking trot in her driving carriage up Bretherdale where she left us to continue over Breasthigh Road. This is classed as a Green Lane and is popular with 4WDs and trail bikes, rather them than me. It was steep and rocky so we adopted packhorse mode and led the horses.
We dropped down sharply towards the A6 and sat on the banks of Borrow Beck while we drank our hot chocolate. 20yds on the A6 and off on another bridleway through a field with 3 young horses, curious but not silly, they just tagged along behind. Across the A6, behind The Plough at Selside over into Longsleddale. Well named valley, lovely riding but you need a horse that does gates, there seemed to be one every 50yards. We met the only other bridleway riders of the entire trip just before we climbed over Sadgill into Kentmere. They were staying locally and had just ridden the route we were to take.
The trail into Kentmere was rideable all the way and we arrived at our friends farm earlier than anticipated. No accommodation or pub handy so Adam and Dad rolled up later with our fish and chips, a few beers and the tent. Sara and I decided not to pitch camp in the same field as the horses, the midges were starting to bite and Bob was looking for things to rub his bum on.
Day 8. Kentmere – Hincaster ( 17 miles)
Last day. Very bad forecast, heavy rain and winds, so decided on an early start. Broke camp, stashed camping gear behind a wall for Dad to collect later and away by 7.15am. Called at the bakery in Staveley for breakfast at 9 and mingled with the cyclists. Heading south from Staveley towards Crook, we followed a section of the Dalesway. Chapel Lane brought us into Underbarrow by the church, then down through Tullithwaite to Brigsteer taking the low road. I think the horses realised they were back on familiar territory. Dad met us in Brigsteer woods with coffee and home made gingerbread. Then onto the last leg.
Sara and I both admitted we couldn’t have had two better horses for the ride, forward going but sensible. This was Hopes first big trip and after the initial excitement she thrived on the work and coped with situations better than I could have imagined. Bob enjoyed the company and showing off his mature side. Sara and I also admitted we couldn’t have done the ride with any other person, we think alike and that helps.
Passing Sizergh Castle, we were all looking forward to getting home and I hoped someone had put the water heater on. Adam cycled to meet us as we passed the Hincaster village sign and took the cameras so he could get shots of us trotting home. We had a reception party by the village green, a bunch of garden flowers for us and carrots for Bob and Hope. A canter across the field for the cameras and Hope still had the energy for a playful buck.
Bridget Pickthall and Sara Hartley completed their ride from Brompton, Northallerton to Hincaster, Milnthorpe on 21st June 2008, so far they have raised £905 for The Great Northern Air Ambulance. They have not planned their next trip but it is just a matter of time. You can view their adventures on youtube, look for Bob ‘n’ Hope on the Road
Recommended accommodation
B&B for humans and horses
Mrs Willis, Crabtree Farm, Gilling West.
Tel 01748 850158
Southview Farm, Winton, Kirkby Stephen.
Tel. 017683 71120
B&B for humans
Mr & Mrs Good, The Ghyll, Arkle Town, Arkengarthdale
Tel.01748 884353
Mrs Bland, Mostyn House, Orton, Tebay
Tel. 015396 24258